How to Crochet the Chevron with a Twist Blanket

Hi guys! I’m so excited to share the Chevron with a Twist crochet blanket with you. This blanket is a play on the Willow Wall Hanging that I designed at the beginning of quarantine. I loved the design so much that I decided to turn it into a blanket – everything is better as a blanket, right? This design features the puff stitch, double crochet stitch, and front post double crochet stitch to create tons of texture.

I chose Lion Brand Scarfie yarn for this project, partly because it has been in my stash for over a year, and partly because I love the ombre effect of this yarn. Even though Scarfie is classified as a bulky weight 5 yarn, I think it fits better in the worsted / aran weight 4 category. I’ve listed a few alternative yarn options below, as well as instructions for customizing the length and width of your chevron crochet blanket. You can find the free pattern below.

Materials:

• *9 Skeins of Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn Weight 5 Bulky (78% Acrylic & 22% Wool, 312 yd/ 285 m, 150 g / 5.3 oz) – (7) Cream/Mustard AND (2) Cream/Silver (used approximately 2590 yds to complete this project)
• *5.5mm crochet hook
• *Yarn Needle
• Scissors
• *Steamer OR Iron with a steam setting (optional)

Pin this Blanket for Later – Here!

Pinning this pattern really makes a difference because it helps it get seen by other crocheters. Thank you for taking the time to pin this pattern!

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*Continue scrolling down for the free pattern on the blog with ads.*

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You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE Ad-free Printable PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE or Ravelry HERE! This 13 page PDF includes the complete pattern, photo tutorials, step-by-step pictures, and a crochet chart for visual crocheters.

Yarn Choice:

This quarantine has given me an opportunity to be creative with the yarn I have in my stash. I started this chevron blanket using Lion Brand Scarfie, in the colorway Cream & Mustard, but soon realized that 6 balls wouldn’t be enough to get me through the project. Thankfully, I also had 2 balls of Scarfie in the colorway Cream & Silver.

While adding on a second colour, three-quarters of the way through the blanket wouldn’t be my first choice, my frugality won this battle. I knew that adding in a second colour would not only save me money, but it would help me use up some of my yarn stash. And you know what? I think it looks pretty cool; it reminds me of dip dyed fabric, which is trendy right now. I’ve included instructions on when to change colour throughout the pattern, if you’d like to try the dip-dyed blanket look too!

Alternative Yarn Options:

Lion Brand Scarfie is a very thin Bulky Weight Yarn, that fits better in the Worsted / Aran Medium 4 weight category. For this reason, here are a few alternative options for you:

Thin Bulky Weight 5 Option:

A great (and cheaper) alternative to Scarfie yarn is Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky. This is a bulky weight 5 yarn that is very thin, like Scarfie, and there are 49 solid colourways to choose from for $3.00 USD or $3.74 CAD per skein.

• Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky Weight 5 Bulky (100% Acrylic, 149 yd / 136 m, 3.5 oz / 100 g)

Thick Worsted / Aran Weight 4 Options:

If you choose to use a Worsted / Aran weight yarn, go for a yarn that is on the thicker end of the spectrum. Here are some of my favourite thick worsted weight yarns to give you an idea:

• Craft Smart Value Solids Yarn Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 354 yd / 324 m, 198 g / 7 oz)
• I Love this Yarn Solids Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 355 yd / 324 m, 198 g / 7 oz)
• *Vanna’s Choice Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 170 yd / 155 m, 3.5 oz / 99 g)
• Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek Weight 4 Medium (100% Acrylic, 232 yd / 212 m, 142 g / 5 oz)

Note: If you use an alternative yarn to Scarfie, you may have to adjust the beginning chain to make your blanket 46″ wide.

Other Crochet Patterns You’ll Love:

• The Willow Wall Hanging
• For the Love of Texture Afghan
• The Mountain Mama Blanket
• Coziness is a Mood Throw
• Summer Nights Blanket

Pattern Measurements:

• Width: 46″
• Length: 61″

Customize the Size of your Blanket

Width: The width of the blanket is determined by the starting chain. To customize the width of the blanket, the starting chain must be a multiple of 35 + 2.
Length: To customize the length of the blanket, continue to alternate between Pattern Repeat 1 & 2, until satisfied with the length. Make sure to end on Pattern Repeat 2, before finishing the blanket with Rows 88 – 89.

Abbreviations:

• St(s) – stitch/stitches
• Ch – chain
• Sk – skip
• Dc – double crochet
• Fpdc – front post double crochet
• Dc2tog – double crochet decrease (double crochet 2 stitches together)
• Ps – puff stitch
• Ps2tog – puff stitch decrease (puff 2 stitches together)
• Rs – right side
• Ws – wrong side
• [] – Repeat instructions inside these brackets

Gauge Swatch (4.25” x 4.25”): 

The final swatch should measure 4.25” x 4.25” unblocked. The beginning ch 2 does not count as a stitch.

• Ch 14
• Row 1: Dc in third ch from hook, and in each ch across. Turn. (12 dc)
• Rows 2 – 6: Ch 2, dc in each st across. Turn. (12 dc)

Puff Stitch Photo Tutorial:

I’ve included a photo tutorial below, to guide you through the steps of making a puff stitch. However, if you prefer to learn through video, here is a link to an excellent tutorial by ExpressionsFiberArts.

• YO, and insert hook into the stitch.

• YO and draw up a loop – there should be 3 loops on the hook.

• Repeat Step 2, two more times – there should be 7 loops on the hook.

• YO and pull through the first 6 loops on the hook- there should be 2 loops remaining on the hook.

• YO and pull through the last 2 loops to close the stitch.

Row 9 – 10 and the Ps2tog Stitch:

Row 9 and 10 use a technique called puff stitching 2 stitches together to create 1 puff stitch (Ps2tog). This stitch is used to decrease at the beginning and end of each row, in order to make the edges of the wall hanging straight.

In Row 9, the Ps2tog is worked across two stitches, and in Row 10 the Ps2tog is worked across two chain spaces. There is also a slight variation between how this stitch is worked at the beginning and end of each row. For example:

At the Beginning of the Row (Beginning Ps2tog): 

(YO, insert hook into first location, YO, draw up a loop) once, (YO, insert hook into second location, YO, draw up a loop) twice, YO, draw through first 6 loops, YO, draw through remaining 2 loops.

At the End of the Row (Ending Ps2tog): 

(YO, insert into first location, YO, draw up a loop) twice, (YO, insert hook into second location, YO, draw up a loop) once, YO, draw through first 6 loops, YO, draw through remaining 2 loops. 

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Pattern Notes: 

1. (dc, ch 2, dc) represents the peak (highest point in the blanket).
2. (dc, sk 2 sts, dc) represents the valley (lowest point in the blanket).
3. The beginning ch 2 of each row does NOT count as a st. 
4. Ps2tog and Dc2tog are done at the beginning and end of each row, in order to keep the edges of the blanket straight (a photo tutorial for the ps2tog in Rows 6 and 7 is shown above).
5. In Row 13, sts include all PS and ch-1 sps.
6. Instructions are provided for making a two-toned (dip-dyed) blanket. If you’d prefer to use one colour, please ignore the colour changing instructions and do not fasten off until the end of the blanket.
7. Odd numbered rows are the right side (Rs), and even numbered rows are the wrong side (Ws).

Pattern:

With Colour A, ch 177 (or chain a multiple of 35 + 2) 

Row 1 (Rs): Dc2tog over third and fourth ch from hook; dc in next 15 chs; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch, dc in next 16 chs, sk 2 chs (valley), dc in next 16 chs] 4 times or until 18 chains remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch, dc in next 15 chs, dc2tog over last 2 chs. Turn. <170 dc total or 5 ch-2 sp peaks –  each side of the ch-2 sp peak has 17 dc>

Row 2 (Ws): Ch 2, dc2tog, fpdc around 15 sts; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around 16 sts, sk 2 sts (valley), fpdc around 16 sts] 4 times or until 18 sts remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around 15 sts, dc2tog. Turn. <17 dc on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Row 3: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 15 sts; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 16 sts, sk 2 sts (valley), dc in next 16 sts] 4 times or until 18 sts remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 15 sts, dc2tog. Turn. <17 dc on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Rows 4 – 5: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.

Row 6: Ch 2, Ps2tog, ch 1, sk 1 st, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 7 times; {(Ps, ch 2, Ps) in ch-2 sp; [sk 1 st, ch 1, Ps in next st, sk 1 st] 8 times; sk 2 sts, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 8 times} 4 times OR until 18 sts remain; (Ps, ch 2, Ps, ch 1) in ch-2 sp, sk 1 st, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 7 times; Ending Ps2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. <9 Ps, 8 Ch-1 sps on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Row 7: Ch 2, Ps in first ch-1 sp, ch 1; [Ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 7 times; {(Ps, ch 2, Ps) in ch -2 sp; [ch 1, Ps in next ch-1 sp] 8 times; sk 2 Ps; [Ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 8 times} 4 times OR until 18 sts remain; (Ps, ch 2, Ps, ch 1) in ch-2 sp, sk 1 st, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 7 times; Ending Ps2tog over last ch-1 sp and turning ch-2 sp. Turn. <9 Ps, 8 Ch-1 sps on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Rows 8 – 12: Repeat Row 7.

*In Row 13, Ps and ch-1 sps count as sts. 

Row 13: Ch 2, dc2tog over first PS and ch-1 sp, dc in next 15 sts; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 16 sts, sk 2 sts (valley), dc in next 16 sts] 4 times or until 18 sts remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 15 sts; dc2tog over last ch-1 sp and Ps. Turn. <17 dc on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Row 14: Ch 2, dc2tog, fpdc around 15 sts; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around 16 sts,  sk 2 sts (valley), fpdc around 16 sts] 4 times or until 18 sts remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, fpdc around 15 sts, dc2tog. Turn. <17 dc on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Row 15: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in next 15 sts; [(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 16 sts, sk 2 sts (valley), dc in next 16 sts] 4 times or until 18 sts remain; (dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 15 sts, dc2tog. Turn. <17 dc on each side of the ch-2 sp peak>

Pattern Repeat 1:

Row 16: Repeat Row 6. 

Rows 17 – 20: Repeat Row 7.

Rows 21 – 23: Repeat Rows 13 – 15. 

Pattern Repeat 2: 

Row 24: Repeat Row 6. 

Rows 25 – 30: Repeat Row 7. 

Rows 31 – 33: Repeat Rows 13 – 15. 

The only difference between Pattern Repeat 1 & 2 is that 1 has 5 rows of PS and 2 has 7 rows of PS.

Rows 34 – 41: Pattern Repeat 1.

Rows 42 – 51: Pattern Repeat 2.

Rows 52 – 59: Pattern Repeat 1.

Rows 60 – 69: Pattern Repeat 2.

To create the Dip-Dyed Blanket Look, fasten off and change colour.

Rows 70 – 77: With Colour B, Pattern Repeat 1.  

Rows 78 – 87: Pattern Repeat 2.

To make the blanket longer, continue to alternate between Pattern Repeat 1 & 2 until satisfied with the length of your blanket. Make sure to end on Pattern Repeat 2, before moving onto Row 88 to finish off the blanket.

Rows 88 – 89: Repeat Rows 14 – 15. Fasten off and weave in ends!

Making Tassels to Add to Your Chevron Crochet Blanket

What blanket is complete without adding some tassels? We will be making 12 medium-sized tassels to add to each valley and corner of the blanket. Place the 4 corner tassels into the first and last stitch of the first and last row – what a mouthful. The remaining 8 tassels will go into the valleys (chain-2 spaces) of the first and last row. You will have a total of 6 tassels on each end of the blanket. These are optional, but if you choose to make them, you will need approx. 1/2 a ball of yarn.

Tip: Before you start crocheting with your last ball of yarn, make your 12 tassels. This will ensure that you have enough yarn to make the tassels AND they will be “straighter”. Using yarn from the end of the ball will make your tassels wavy/curly. For aesthetic purposes, tassels should be as straight as possible.

Step 1: Each tassel is made of 10 strands that are approximately 17″ long. Cut 10, 17″ long strands.

Step 2: Fold the 10 strands in half to create a loop on one side. Insert the loop end into the chain-2 space (valley) of the first row.

Step 3: Reach your fingers through the loop and pull the 10 strands through the loop. This creates a knot. Pull the strands tight to close the tassel and secure it to the blanket.

Step 4: With a pair of scissors, trim the tassel to make the strands straight.

Repeat this process 11 more times.

Block Your Blanket: 

Blocking your work is optional, but I recommend blocking this blanket to improve the drape and look of your stitches. Blocking your work is done by wetting or steaming your crochet piece to allow the stitches to relax, stretch out, and lie flat.

Pin and Steamer/Iron Method: Lay the blanket flat or vertically (depending on how your steamer works) and place straight pins along each side to straighten it and hold it in place. Move the steamer/iron over the blanket, making sure that it is at least 3 inches away from the piece, so the yarn does not heat up and melt. Let the blanket fully dry before removing the pins. 

Pin and Spray Method: If you don’t have a steamer or iron, you can use straight pins to stretch and straighten out your work, before lightly spraying it with water. Allow the piece to dry overnight or wait 24 hours before unpinning it.

End Notes:

Congratulations! You’ve made your first Chevron with a Twist blanket. I hope you enjoyed making it as much as I did. If you loved this pattern, please share it, so that others can make it too!

Check out some more fun and budget-friendly crochet patterns on the blog.

Disclaimer: You are welcome to sell items that you’ve made from this pattern; however, you are not allowed to use my pictures or sell my pattern as your own (Copyright @ ThisPixieCreates).

Looking for a New Project?

If you loved this project and want to make another, try the Summer Nights Blanket. This blanket is designed to be the perfect light and airy piece to wrap yourself in on cool summer evenings. It’s a great stash buster project that will help you use up some of your stash, and help you get creative with colour!

Questions?

If you have any questions about the pattern, please send me a message through the “Contact” section of this website. I am happy to help!

Thank you guys so much for following along. I can’t wait to see what you create!

Love, Dayna
Instagram: @thispixiecreates