How to Crochet the Willow Wall Hanging

Hi guys! It’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted anything new, so I’m excited to finally share this project with you. During the quarantine, I set a goal to only use materials that I have on hand. Thankfully, I was able to find a dowel and some pretty yarn to make this crochet wall hanging. The neutral colours make this piece warm and inviting, while drawing attention to the beautiful stitches. This crochet wall hanging uses less than 1 skein of yarn, so it’s a great budget-friendly project. It’s also really pretty! Need I say more? It’s time to grab your favourite skein of yarn, pour yourself some tea (or coffee), and dive into the pattern.

You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE Printable PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE! or Raverly HERE! This PDF includes the complete pattern, photo tutorials, and step-by-step pictures, so you can follow along on paper, highlight and make notes. It is a total of 16 pages including the cover page.

Materials:

• Approximately 300 – 340 yds of any Weight 4 Medium Yarn
• *6.0mm crochet hook
• *Yarn Needle
• Scissors
• *Dowel (any size – pattern is written for 16″ dowel)
• *Steamer or Iron on Steam Setting (highly recommended)

Yarn Choice for this Crochet Wall Hanging:

At the beginning of the quarantine, I decided to organize my yarn – a huge 3 day undertaking. While looking through my stash, I came across a single skein of Loops and Threads Shimmer Luxe Yarn in the colour Winter White. It’s a neutral self-striping yarn with a slight sheen and sparkle to it – so beautiful. I couldn’t wait to share my project and yarn choice, until I realized that Loops and Threads stopped making this yarn. I’m sorry guys! If you happen to have a ball of this in your stash, it’s perfect for this crochet wall hanging, but there are so many other beautiful yarn choices out there. Any medium 4 worsted weight yarn will do the trick, so pick your favourite skein and start creating!

Alternative Yarn Options:

Since Loops and Threads Shimmer Luxe Yarn has been discontinued, I put together a list of alternative yarn options, if you are interested in using a similar colorway. All 3 colorways are so pretty!

1. Option #1: Lion Brand Mandala Watercolor Yarn in the Colorway “Almond”
2. Option #2: Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek Print Yarn in the Colorway “Ivory Stripes”
3. Option #3: Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek Print Yarn in the Colorway “Neutral Stripes”

Dowel Options:

I’ve been wanting to make a wall hanging for months, but quarantine made me think twice about heading off to the hardware store to find a dowel. Then I noticed my wooden hanger! I pulled out some pliers to work the metal off the wood, and voila, I had a 16″ dowel. Unfortunately, I’ve noticed that it’s nearly impossible to find a 16″ dowel online.

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Solution: If you don’t have a wooden hanger or stick to hold up your wall hanging, I recommend making a trip to Home Depot or placing an order online. Dowels are really inexpensive ($1.88 for a 48″ dowel). A 48″ dowel can be cut into 3 equal pieces measuring 16″. You can either cut the pieces yourself using a saw, or ask the staff to make the cuts for you. As long as you measure and mark the cuts yourself, they will be happy to help you!

Abbreviations:

• St(s) – stitch/stitches
• Hk – hook
• Ch – chain
• Sp – space
• Sk – skip
• Dc – double crochet
• Fpdc – front-post double crochet
• Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
• Ps – puff stitch
• Ps2tog – puff 2 stitches together
• Rs – right side
• Ws – wrong side
• [] – Repeat the instructions inside the brackets according to the number of times indicated after the brackets.

Gauge: Approximately 14 st(s) x 7 rows in 4 x 4″

Ch 16

Row 1: Dc in 3rd ch from hk, and in each st across (14 dc). Turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around each st across (14 fpdc). Turn.

Row 3 – 7: Repeat Row 1 – 2.

Pattern Measurements for the Crochet Wall Hanging:

Pin this Crochet Wall Hanging for Later – Here!

Puff Stitch Tutorial:

I’ve included a photo tutorial below, to guide you through the steps of making a puff stitch. However, if you prefer to learn through video, here is a link to an excellent tutorial by ExpressionsFiberArts.

• 1. Yarn over, and insert your hook into the stitch.

• 2. Yarn over and draw up a loop – you should have 3 loops on your hook.

• 3. Repeat Step 2, two more times – you should have 7 loops on your hook.

• 4. Yarn over and pull through the first 6 loops on your hook- you should have 2 loops remaining on your hook.

• 5. Yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops to close the stitch.

Row 9 – 10 and the Ps2tog Stitch:

Row 9 and 10 use a technique called puff stitching 2 stitches together (Ps2tog). This stitch is used to create a decrease at the beginning and end of each row, in order to make the edges of the wall hanging straight.

In this first photo tutorial, I will be showing you how to ps2tog at the beginning and end of Row 9.

Beginning of Row 9:

Step 1: Yarn over, and insert your hook into the 1st stitch of Row 9.

Step 2: Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 3: Yarn over and insert your hook into the 2nd stitch of Row 9.

Step 4: Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 5 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Repeat Step 3 – 4 once more. You should have 7 loops on your hook.

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through the first 6 loops on your hook. You should have 2 loops remaining.

Step 7: Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook to secure this stitch. And you’re done!

End of Row 9:

Step 1: Yarn over and insert your hook into the 2nd last stitch of Row 9.

Step 2: Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 3: Repeat Step 1 – 2 once more. You should have 5 loops on your hook.

Step 4: Yarn over and insert your hook into the last stitch of Row 9.

Step 5: Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 7 loops on your hook.

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through the first 6 loops on your hook. You should have 2 loops remaining.

Step 7: Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook to secure this stitch. And you’re done!

In this second photo tutorial, I will be showing you how to start and end row 10.

Beginning of Row 10:

Chain 2 and make a regular puff stitch in the first chain-1 space of row 10. Done!

End of Row 10:

Step 1: Yarn over and insert your hook into the last chain-1 space of Row 10.

Step 2: Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 3: Repeat Step 1 – 2 once more. You should have 5 loops on your hook.

Step 4: Yarn over and insert your hook into the beginning chain-2 space of Row 9. Yarn over and draw up a loop. You should have 7 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Yarn over and pull through the first 6 loops on your hook. You should have 2 loops remaining.

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on your hook to secure this stitch. And you’re done!

Let’s get to the pattern!

Pattern:

Notes:

• The (dc, ch 1, dc) means that you will be working a double crochet, a chain-1, and another double crochet, all in one stitch. These are only worked in the center chain-1 spaces of the row.
• [] Repeat the instructions inside the brackets according to the number of times indicated after the brackets.
• The beginning chain of each row does NOT count as a stitch.
• A photo tutorial for the beginning and end of Row 9 and 10 are shown above.
• A photo tutorial for the ps2tog is shown above.
• In Row 10, you will only be working in the chain-1 spaces!
• Odd rows are the right side (Rs) and even rows are the wrong side (Ws).

Ch 17

Row 1 (Rs): Make 3 dc in 3rd ch from hk; dc in the next 6 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st; dc in next 6 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 10 dc on each side of the triangle)

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Row 2 (Ws): Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; fpdc around next 9 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; fpdc around next 9 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 9 fpdc + 4 dc on each side of the triangle)

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Row 3: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; dc in next 12 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; dc in next 12 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 16 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 4: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; fpdc around next 15 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; fpdc around next 15 st(s); 3dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 15 fpdc + 4 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 5: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; dc in next 18 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; dc in next 18 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 22 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 6: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; fpdc around next 21 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; fpdc around next 21 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 21 fpdc + 4 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 7: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st; dc in next 24 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; dc in next 24 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 28 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 8: Ch 2, 3 dc in 1st st, fpdc around next 27 st(s); (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch -1 sp; fpdc around next 27 st(s); 3 dc in last st. Turn. (Stitch Count: 27 fpdc + 4 dc on each side of the triangle)

*Your work should be approximately 13.5 – 14.5″ wide. The width of the wall hanging is no longer increasing; the length will continue to increase.

Row 9: Ch 2, ps2tog, ch 1, sk 1 st, [ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 14 times; (ps, ch 1, ps, ch 1) in center ch -1 sp; sk 1 st, [ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 14 times; ps2tog. Turn. (Stitch Count: 16 Ps on each side of the triangle)

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Row 10: Ch 2, Ps in 1st ch-1 sp, ch 1; [ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 times; (ps, ch 1, ps, ch 1) in center ch -1 sp; [ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 times; ps2tog *(Photo Tutorial Above). Turn. (Stitch Count: 16 Ps on each side of the triangle)

Row 11 – 12: Repeat Row 10.

Row 13: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across until you reach the center ch-1 sp; (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch-1 sp; dc in each st and ch-1 sp across until 2 st(s) remain; dc2tog. Turn. (Stitch Count: 31 dc on each side of the triangle)

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Row 14: Ch 2, dc2tog, fpdc around each st until you reach the center ch-1 sp; (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch-1 sp; fpdc around each st until 2 st(s) remain; dc2tog. Turn. (Stitch Count: 29 fpdc + 2 dc on each side of the triangle)

Row 15: Repeat Row 9.

Row 16 – 18: Repeat Row 10.

Row 19 – 20: Repeat Row 13 – 14.

Row 21: Repeat Row 9.

Row 22 – 24: Repeat Row 10.

Row 25 – 26: Repeat Row 13 – 14.

Row 27: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each st across until you reach the center ch-1 sp; (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch-1 sp; dc in each st across until 2 st(s) remain; dc2tog. Turn. (Stitch Count: 31 dc on each side of the triangle)

Fasten off and weave in ends!

Blocking your Crochet Wall Hanging:

Blocking your work is always optional, but I highly recommend it for this piece. If you’ve never blocked your work before, or you’re unsure of what it means to “block” something, let’s dive in. Blocking your work is done by wetting or steaming your crochet piece, which allows the stitches to relax, stretch out, and lie flat. Blocking will improve the drape of a crochet piece, so it’s an important step when you crochet clothing or wall hangings.

I’ve tried a few different ways of blocking, but my go-to method is to use a steamer or an iron on a steam setting. Simply lay your piece flat or vertically (depending on how your steamer works) and move the steamer/iron over your work. Make sure that the steamer/iron is at least 2 inches away from your work. Pull on your piece to straighten it out, and let it dry.

If you don’t have a steamer or iron, you can use straight pins to stretch and straighten out your work, before lightly spraying it with water. Allow the piece to dry overnight or wait 24 hours before unpinning it.

Attaching the Crochet Wall Hanging to a Dowel:

Now that your wall hanging is blocked, it’s time to attach it to the dowel. Thread a yarn needle with a long tail (10″) and insert the needle into the first stitch from underneath the dowel. Pull the yarn through the stitch and loop it around the dowel. Repeat this process in each stitch across. Make a knot at the end of the left side, and weave in the yarn tail. Repeat this process on the right side of the wall hanging.

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To hang the wall hanging on the wall, attach a 20″ strand of yarn to each end of the dowel. Secure the strand with a knot at each end.

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Tip: If your wall hanging does not lie completely flat against the wall, put an invisible thumb tack in the bottom corners and center space to hold it in place. No one will be able to see these pins (I promise!).

And You’re Done!

Congratulations! You’ve just made your first Willow Wall Hanging. If you loved this pattern, please share it, so that others can make it too!

If you would like to explore some more fun and budget friendly crochet patterns on this blog, click here.

Questions?

If you have any trouble throughout the pattern and need some clarification, please feel free to send me a message through the “Contact” section of this website. I would be more than happy to help!

Disclaimer: You are welcome to sell items that you’ve made from this pattern; however, you are not allowed to use my pictures or sell my pattern as your own (Copyright @ ThisPixieCreates).

Thank you guys so much for following along. I can’t wait to see what you create!

Love, Dayna
Instagram: @thispixiecreates