Hi guys! It’s been a few weeks since I’ve posted anything new, so I’m excited to finally share this project with you. During the quarantine, I set a goal to only use materials that I have on hand. Thankfully, I was able to find a dowel and some pretty yarn to make this crochet wall hanging. The neutral colours make this piece warm and inviting, while drawing attention to the beautiful stitches. This crochet wall hanging uses less than 1 skein of yarn, so it’s a great budget-friendly project. It’s also really pretty! Need I say more? It’s time to grab your favourite skein of yarn, pour yourself some tea (or coffee), and dive into the pattern. You can find the free pattern below.

Materials:
- Approximately 300 – 340 yds of ANY medium 4 worsted/aran weight yarn
- 6.0 mm crochet hookΒ
- ScissorsΒ
- Yarn Needle
- Wooden Dowel (Β½β wide x 17β/18β long)Β
- Steamer or iron with a steam setting (optional)Β
- Blocking Mats / Foam / Carpet (optional)
- Straight Pins or Blocking Pins (optional)
Yarn Choice for this Crochet Wall Hanging:
At the beginning of the quarantine, I decided to organize my yarn – a huge 3 day undertaking. While looking through my stash, I came across a single skein of Loops and Threads Shimmer Luxe Yarn in the colour Winter White. It’s a neutral self-striping yarn with a slight sheen and sparkle to it – so beautiful. I couldn’t wait to share my project and yarn choice, until I realized that Loops and Threads stopped making this yarn. I’m sorry guys! If you happen to have a ball of this in your stash, it’s perfect for this crochet wall hanging, but there are so many other beautiful yarn choices out there. Any medium 4 worsted weight yarn will do the trick, so pick your favourite skein and start creating!
Alternative Yarn Options:
Since Loops and Threads Shimmer Luxe Yarn has been discontinued, I put together a list of alternative yarn options, if you are interested in using a similar colorway. All 4 colorways are so pretty!
- Option #1: Lion Brand Scarfie Yarn
- Option #2: Lion Brand Mandala Watercolor Yarn in the Colorway βAlmondβ
- Option #3: Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek Print Yarn in the Colorway βIvory Stripesβ
- Option #4: Yarn Bee Soft and Sleek Print Yarn in the Colorway βNeutral Stripesβ

*Continue scrolling down for the free version of this pattern with ads on the blog*
You can purchase anΒ INEXPENSIVE Ad-Free Printable PDFΒ of this pattern on EtsyΒ HERE! or Raverly HERE! This 16 page PDF includes the complete pattern, photo tutorials, and step-by-step pictures, so you can follow along on paper, highlight and make notes.
Dowel Options:
I’ve been wanting to make a wall hanging for months, but quarantine made me think twice about heading off to the hardware store to find a dowel. Then I noticed my wooden hanger! I pulled out some pliers to work the metal off the wood, and voila, I had a 17″ dowel. Unfortunately, I’ve noticed that it’s nearly impossible to find a 17″ dowel online.
Solution: Finding a dowel that measures 17β or 18β long can be tricky. You can find a larger dowel at your local craft or home improvement store, and cut it down to size with a saw or an exacto knife.


Abbreviations:
- St(s) – stitch/stitches
- YO – yarn over
- Ch – chain
- Sp – space
- Sk – skip
- Dc – double crochet
- Fpdc – front-post double crochet
- Dc2tog – double crochet 2 stitches together
- Ps – puff stitch
- Ps2tog – puff 2 stitches together
- Rs – right side
- Ws – wrong side
- [] – Repeat the instructions inside the brackets according to the number of times indicated after the brackets.
Gauge Swatch (4β x 4β):
You might be tempted to skip this step, but since the wall hanging has to fit on the dowel, it is important that your gauge is accurate before you start crocheting. The final swatch should measure approx. 4β x 4β.
- Ch 14
- Row 1: Dc in third ch from hook, and in each ch across. Turn. <12 dc>
- Row 2: Ch 2, fpdc around each st across. Turn. <12 fpdc>
- Row 3: Ch 2, dc in each st across. Turn <12 dc>
- Rows 4 – 7: Repeat Rows 2 – 3.
Pattern Measurements for the Crochet Wall Hanging:
These measurements are taken AFTER blocking. Blocking your wall hanging improves the drape and look of your stitches, straightens out the edges, and lengthens the stitches to allow them to lie flat. Blocking is a very important step in this wall hanging.

Pin this Crochet Wall Hanging for Later – Here!

Puff Stitch Tutorial:
I’ve included a photo tutorial below, to guide you through the steps of making a puff stitch. However, if you prefer to learn through video, here is a link to an excellent tutorial by ExpressionsFiberArts.
- 1. YO, and insert hook into the stitch.

- 2. YO and draw up a loop – there should be 3 loops on the hook.

- 3. Repeat Step 2, two more times – there should be 7 loops on the hook.

- 4. YO and pull through the first 6 loops on the hook – there should be 2 loops remaining on the hook.

- 5. YO and pull through the last 2 loops to close the stitch.

Row 9 – 10 and the Ps2tog Stitch:
Row 9 and 10 use a technique called puff stitching 2 stitches together to create 1 puff stitch (Ps2tog). This stitch is used to decrease at the beginning and end of each row, in order to make the edges of the wall hanging straight.
In Row 9, the Ps2tog is worked across two stitches, and in Row 10 the Ps2tog is worked across two chain spaces. There is also a slight variation between how this stitch is worked at the beginning and end of each row. For example:
At the Beginning of the Row (Beginning Ps2tog):
(YO, insert hook into first location, YO, draw up a loop) once, (YO, insert hook into second location, YO, draw up a loop) twice, YO, draw through first 6 loops, YO, draw through remaining 2 loops.




At the End of the Row (Ending Ps2tog):
(YO, insert into first location, YO, draw up a loop) twice, (YO, insert hook into second location, YO, draw up a loop) once, YO, draw through first 6 loops, YO, draw through remaining 2 loops.





Pattern:
Notes:
- The (dc, ch 1, dc) means that you will be working a double crochet, a chain-1, and another double crochet, all in the same stitch. These are only worked in the center chain-1 spaces of each row.
- The beginning ch of each row does NOT count as a st.
- A photo tutorial for the Beginning and Ending Ps2tog is shown above.
- In Row 10, you will only be working in the ch-1 sps!
- Odd numbered rows are the right side (Rs), and even numbered rows are the wrong side (Ws).
Ch 17
Row 1 (Rs): 3 dc in third ch from hook, dc in the next 6 chs, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch, dc in next 6 chs, 3 dc in last ch. Turn. <10 dc on each side of center ch-1 sp>


Row 2 (Ws): Ch 2, 3 dc in first st, fpdc around each st to ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, fpdc around each st to last st, 3 dc in last st. Turn. <9 fpdc + 4 dc on each side of center ch-1 sp>


Row 3: Ch 2, 3 dc in first st, dc in each st to ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in each st to last st, 3 dc in last st. Turn. <16 dc on each side of center ch-1 sp>

Rows 4 – 8: Repeat Rows 2 – 3, ending with a Row 2. Each row increases by 3 sts. Row 8 Stitch Count: 27 fpdc + 4 dc.

*Your work should measure approx 15.5β – 16.5″ wide. The width of the wall hanging will no longer increase; however, the length will continue to increase. To make the wall hanging wider, continue to repeat Rows 2 – 3, making sure to end on Row 2.
Row 9: Ch 2, Beginning Ps2tog over first and second sts, ch 1, sk 1 st, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 14 times; (Ps, ch 1, Ps, ch 1) in center ch-1 sp; sk 1 st, [Ps in next st, ch 1, sk 1 st] 14 times; Ending Ps2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. <16 Ps + 14 ch-1 sps on each side of center ch-1 sp>


Row 10: Ch 2, Ps in first ch-1 sp, ch 1; [Ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 times; (Ps, ch 1, Ps, ch 1) in center ch-1 sp; [Ps in next ch-1 sp, ch 1] 14 times; Ending Ps2tog over last ch-1 sp and turning ch-2 sp. Turn. <16 Ps + 14 ch-1 sps on each side of center ch-1 sp>

Rows 11 – 12: Repeat Row 10.

Row 13: Ch 2, dc2tog over first Ps and ch-1 sp, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across until the center ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in center ch-1 sp, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across until 2 sts remain, dc2tog over last ch-1 sp and Ps. Turn. <31 dc on each side of the center ch-1 sp>


Row 14: Ch 2, dc2tog, fpdc around each st until ch-1 sp, (dc, ch 1, dc) in ch-1 sp, fpdc around each st until 2 sts remain, dc2tog. Turn. <29 fpdc + 2 dc on each of the center ch-1 sp>

Row 15: Repeat Row 9.
Rows 16 – 18: Repeat Row 10.
Rows 19 – 20: Repeat Rows 13 – 14.
Row 21: Repeat Row 9.
Rows 22 – 24: Repeat Row 10.
To make the wall hanging longer, continue to repeat Rows 19 – 24, until happy with the length. Then finish the wall hanging with Rows 25 – 27.
Rows 25 – 27: Repeat Rows 13 – 14, ending with a Row 13.
Fasten off and weave in ends!
Attaching the Crochet Wall Hanging to a Dowel:
Now that your wall hanging is blocked, it’s time to attach it to the dowel. Thread a yarn needle with a long tail (10″) and insert the needle into the first stitch from underneath the dowel. Pull the yarn through the stitch and loop it around the dowel. Repeat this process in each stitch across. Make a knot at the end of the left side, and weave in the yarn tail. Repeat this process on the right side of the wall hanging.




To hang the wall hanging on the wall, attach a 20″ strand of yarn to each end of the dowel. Secure the strand with a knot at each end.


Blocking your Crochet Wall Hanging (Important Step):
Now that your wall hanging is attached to the dowel, itβs time to block! Blocking is done by wetting or steaming your wall hanging, which allows the stitches to relax, stretch out, and lie flat. Blocking gives your piece a polished/finished look.
Steamer/Iron Method (Preferred Method): Lay your wall hanging on a piece of styrofoam or blocking mat, and pin it in place with straight pins. Move the steamer/iron over your work, making sure that the steamer/iron is at least 2 inches away from your work. Youβll notice that the stitches start to lengthen and stretch, which will cause the length of your wall hanging to increase, and help the stitches lie flat.
Run your hand over the piece to let the steam soak in, and reposition your wall hanging with the pins to straighten it. Let it dry, and remove the pins.
Pin and Spray Method: If you don’t have a steamer or iron, you can use straight pins to stretch and straighten out your work, before lightly spraying it with water. Allow the piece to dry overnight or wait 24 hours before unpinning it.
*Tip: If your wall hanging does not lie completely flat against the wall, put an invisible thumb tack in the bottom corners and center space to hold it in place. No one will be able to see these pins (I promise!).

And You’re Done!
Congratulations! You’ve just made your first Willow Wall Hanging. If you loved this pattern, please share it, so that others can make it too!
If you would like to explore some more fun and budget friendly crochet patterns on this blog, click here.
Questions?
If you have any questions about the pattern, please send me a message through the “Contact” section of this website. I am happy to help!
Disclaimer: You are welcome to sell items that you’ve made from this pattern; however, you are not allowed to use my pictures or sell my pattern as your own (Copyright @ ThisPixieCreates).
Thank you guys so much for following along. I can’t wait to see what you create!
Love, Dayna
Instagram: @thispixiecreates
Super easy to read pattern. I’m a beginner and followed along with ease. Fun project and love the finished product. Thank you for sharing.
Hey Sabrina,
I’m so glad you loved the finished product and found the pattern easy to follow. That is always great to hear! π
Sincerely,
Dayna
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Hi, Dayna!
I love this pattern and can’t wait to see how this project comes out!
I’m stuck near the beginning, though, and wonder if you can please help me.
On row 2, I ch 2, dc 3 in first st, 9 fpdc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in center. Then I do another 9 fpdc. When I get to the end, there’s sort of technically an add’l post, then room for the dc 3. I end up with the extra post, and instead of having 4 dc at the end of the row, I only have 3. I’ve tried several different things to figure this out, but I am just having no luck. Can you please help? I don’t want to abandon this, as it is perfect for my office wall. Thank you!
Hi Maggie!
I’m so glad you love the pattern. I just want to make sure that I am understanding what’s happening in Row 2. The added post that you have, sounds like the ch 2 that we skipped in Row 1 (when we started in the third ch from the hook). The beginning ch 2 doesn’t count as a st, so you can ignore it.
At the end of the row, it sounds like you have the correct number of stitches (Ch 2, dc 3, 9 fpdc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in center. 9 fpdc, then dc 3). The dc on either side of the ch-1 sp counts as 1 dc, and then 3 dc in the last st, makes 4 dc.
I hope this helps, but if I didn’t answer your question, please let me know, and I’ll try again. π
Sincerely,
Dayna
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Beautiful pattern and very easy to follow. Thank you for sharing.
You’re so welcome Carolyn! Glad you like it. π