This potholder reminds me of the transition from summer to autumn – a perfect blend of warm days and cool evenings. I love watching the sun set in the evening, but it can be bittersweet knowing that it sets a little earlier each day.
So let’s soak up these last few days of summer, before winter sets in!
Pin this Zig Zag Crochet Potholder – HERE!
Important Links / Schedule:
Materials:
Yarn:
Yardage:
Front and Back of the Zig and Zag Crochet Potholder:
*The Ad-free Printable PDF for the Zig and Zag Potholder is available as an individual PDF pattern, or as a Crochet Along bundle which includes written instructions for all 12 patterns, step-by-step pictures, links to the video tutorial, and is ready to print and use! Each month, the next pattern will be ready to download.
Abbreviations:
Gauge: Approximately 15 sc x 19 rows = 4” x 4”
Pattern Measurements and Construction:
How to Customize the Size of Your Potholder:
- Width: The width of the potholder is determined by the starting chain. Chain any even number, until satisfied with the width.
- Length: Repeat Rows 5 – 8 until satisfied with the length.
- Keep track of the number of chains and rows you work because you will need to repeat the process to make 2 identical squares.
Special Stitches and Techniques
Spike Stitch:
Each spike stitch is a long / extended single crochet worked into the st two rows below.
- Insert the hook into the indicated st two rows below.
- YO, and pull up the loop until it reaches the height of the current row.
- YO and pull through both loops to complete the st!
Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together (Sc2tog):
A sc2tog is a decrease stitch that combines 2 stitches into one. In this potholder, the sc2tog is worked differently: it joins the left and right legs from 2 spike stitches, to create a triangle pattern. Each sc2tog happens above a sc from the previous row – this sc will be left unworked.
- Insert hook under the second leg of Spike #1, and the first leg of the Spike #2. (Picture 1)
- YO, pull through both legs and draw up a loop – you should have 2 loops on the hook. (Picture 2)
- YO and pull through both loops to make a single crochet. (Picture 3)
Changing Colour Tutorial:
This potholder changes colour every 4 rows. The colour change happens in the final YO of the last sc of the row.
- Before completing the final YO of the last sc of the row, drop the current colour, and pick up the new colour with your hook. (Pictures 1 & 2)
- Pull through the remaining 2 loops on hook to complete the st. (Picture 3)
Tip: How to Keep Your Edges Straight (and Avoid Jagged Edges):
To create straight edges along the left and right side of your potholder, place the last sc of each row into the side of the beginning ch 1 of the previous row. Here is a tutorial that walks you through this method!
Right Side (Rs) vs. Wrong Side (Ws):
Since we are turning our work at the end of each row, we are going to have a Rs and a Ws. The right side shows the zig-zag or triangle pattern, while the wrong side shows the spike stitches.
Video Tutorial:
Pattern:
Notes:
- The beginning ch of each row does NOT count as a st.
- Odd numbered rows are considered the Ws, and even numbered rows are considered the Rs.
- This potholder is made up of 2 identical squares (front and back) that are joined together, before adding a border and a ch-circle.
- Colour changes happen every 4 rows, but different coloured yarns are used to highlight the placement of the sts in the step-by-step pictures below. Please follow the colour changing instructions in the pattern, not the pictures.
Squares (Make 2):
With Colour A, ch 28.
Row 1 (Ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. <27 sc>
Rows 2 – 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Change to Colour B at the end of Row 4. <27 sc>
Row 5 (Ws): With Colour B, ch 1, sc in first st, [Spike in next st, sc in next st] across. Turn. <14 sc, 13 Spike>
Row 6 (Rs): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, [sc2tog – joining 2 Spikes, sc in next Spike] until 1 st remains, sc in last st. Turn. <27 sc>
Rows 7 – 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Change to Colour C at the end of Row 8. <27 sc>
Rows 9 – 36: Repeat Rows 5 – 8, 7 times, while following the colour changes below.
| Rows 9 – 12: Colour C Rows 13 – 16: Colour D Rows 17 – 20: Colour A Rows 21 – 24: Colour B | Rows 25 – 28: Colour C Rows 29 – 32: Colour D Rows 33 – 36: Colour A |
Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat the process to make a total of 2 squares.
Joining the Zig Zag Squares:
To join the squares together, place them on top of each other, making sure that the wrong sides are touching and the right sides are facing out.
Notes:
- When working each st, go through the matching sts / rows of both squares.
- The stitch count shown in <> is an approximation!
- Insert hook into the top right corner of both squares, YO with Colour B, and pull through both sts of the squares to fasten on.
Rnd 1:
Top: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st – this is the first corner, [Spike in next st, sc in next st] until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last st – this is the second corner.
Left Side: Work 3 sts into the side of each 4-row coloured section – this creates a straighter/less wavy edge.
[Spike in next row, sc in next row] across.
Bottom: Sc sts are worked into the bottom of the ch, and Spike sts are worked into the bottom of the Spike sts from Row 5.
2 sc in first ch – this is the third corner, [Spike in next st, sc in next ch] until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last ch – this is the fourth corner.
Right Side: Work 3 sts into the side of each 4-row coloured section.
[Spike in next row, sc in next row] across. Join with a sl st. Do not turn. <56 sc, 52 Spike>
Rnd 2:
Top: Ch 1, sc in first corner sc, sc2tog – joining the first and last Spike from Rnd 1, [sc in next Spike, sc2tog – joining next 2 Spikes] across.
Adding a Ch-circle: After making a sc into the last Spike at the top of the potholder, ch 13. Insert hook into the front loop and the second leg of the sc and make a sl st – this creates a ch-circle.
Left Side / Bottom / Right Side: {Sc in first corner sc, [sc2tog, sc in next Spike] across} 3 times. Join with a sl st. <108 sc>
Block Your Zig Zag Crochet Potholder (Optional):
Blocking is the process of wetting a piece of crochet to make the ends and rows straight. To block this potholder, you will need a steamer or spray bottle, straight pins, and a blocking mat or foam.
- Block your work by stretching out the potholder (vertically and horizontally), and placing straight pins along each side of the potholder to hold it in place.
- With a steamer or spray bottle, gently steam/spray the potholder. When using a steamer, stay at least 2 inches away from the potholder, so the yarn doesn’t burn.
- Gently pat the steam/water into the potholder with your hand.
- Allow the potholder to dry completely before unpinning it.
Questions?
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