This potholder reminds me of the transition from summer to autumn – a perfect blend of warm days and cool evenings. I love watching the sun set in the evening, but it can be bittersweet knowing that it sets a little earlier each day.
So let’s soak up these last few days of summer, before winter sets in!
Pin this Zig Zag Crochet Potholder – HERE!
Important Links / Schedule:
Materials:
Yarn:
Yardage:
Front and Back of the Zig and Zag Crochet Potholder:
The Ad-free Printable PDF for the Zig and Zag Potholder is available as an individual PDF pattern on Etsy or Ravelry; or as a Crochet Along bundle, which includes written instructions for all 13 patterns on Ravelry or Etsy!
Abbreviations:
Gauge: Approximately 15 sc x 19 rows = 4” x 4”
Pattern Measurements and Construction:
How to Customize the Size of Your Potholder:
- Width: The width of the potholder is determined by the starting chain. Chain any even number, until satisfied with the width.
- Length: Repeat Rows 5 – 8 until satisfied with the length.
- Keep track of the number of chains and rows you work because you will need to repeat the process to make 2 identical squares.
Special Stitches and Techniques
Spike Stitch:
Each spike stitch is a long / extended single crochet worked into the st two rows below.
- Insert the hook into the indicated st two rows below.
- YO, and pull up the loop until it reaches the height of the current row.
- YO and pull through both loops to complete the st!
Single Crochet 2 Stitches Together (Sc2tog):
A sc2tog is a decrease stitch that combines 2 stitches into one. In this potholder, the sc2tog is worked differently: it joins the left and right legs from 2 spike stitches, to create a triangle pattern. Each sc2tog happens above a sc from the previous row – this sc will be left unworked.
- Insert hook under the second leg of Spike #1, and the first leg of the Spike #2. (Picture 1)
- YO, pull through both legs and draw up a loop – you should have 2 loops on the hook. (Picture 2)
- YO and pull through both loops to make a single crochet. (Picture 3)
Changing Colour Tutorial:
This potholder changes colour every 4 rows. The colour change happens in the final YO of the last sc of the row.
- Before completing the final YO of the last sc of the row, drop the current colour, and pick up the new colour with your hook. (Pictures 1 & 2)
- Pull through the remaining 2 loops on hook to complete the st. (Picture 3)
Tip: How to Keep Your Edges Straight (and Avoid Jagged Edges):
To create straight edges along the left and right side of your potholder, place the last sc of each row into the side of the beginning ch 1 of the previous row. Here is a tutorial that walks you through this method!
Right Side (Rs) vs. Wrong Side (Ws):
Since we are turning our work at the end of each row, we are going to have a Rs and a Ws. The right side shows the zig-zag or triangle pattern, while the wrong side shows the spike stitches.
Video Tutorial:
Pattern:
Notes:
- The beginning ch of each row does NOT count as a st.
- Odd numbered rows are considered the Ws, and even numbered rows are considered the Rs.
- This potholder is made up of 2 identical squares (front and back) that are joined together, before adding a border and a ch-circle.
- Colour changes happen every 4 rows, but different coloured yarns are used to highlight the placement of the sts in the step-by-step pictures below. Please follow the colour changing instructions in the pattern, not the pictures.
Squares (Make 2):
With Colour A, ch 28.
Row 1 (Ws): Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. <27 sc>
Rows 2 – 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Change to Colour B at the end of Row 4. <27 sc>
Row 5 (Ws): With Colour B, ch 1, sc in first st, [Spike in next st, sc in next st] across. Turn. <14 sc, 13 Spike>
Row 6 (Rs): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, [sc2tog – joining 2 Spikes, sc in next Spike] until 1 st remains, sc in last st. Turn. <27 sc>
Rows 7 – 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. Change to Colour C at the end of Row 8. <27 sc>
Rows 9 – 36: Repeat Rows 5 – 8, 7 times, while following the colour changes below.
| Rows 9 – 12: Colour C Rows 13 – 16: Colour D Rows 17 – 20: Colour A Rows 21 – 24: Colour B | Rows 25 – 28: Colour C Rows 29 – 32: Colour D Rows 33 – 36: Colour A |
Fasten off and weave in ends. Repeat the process to make a total of 2 squares.
Joining the Zig Zag Squares:
To join the squares together, place them on top of each other, making sure that the wrong sides are touching and the right sides are facing out.
Notes:
- When working each st, go through the matching sts / rows of both squares.
- The stitch count shown in <> is an approximation!
- Insert hook into the top right corner of both squares, YO with Colour B, and pull through both sts of the squares to fasten on.
Rnd 1:
Top: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st – this is the first corner, [Spike in next st, sc in next st] until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last st – this is the second corner.
Left Side: Work 3 sts into the side of each 4-row coloured section – this creates a straighter/less wavy edge.
[Spike in next row, sc in next row] across.
Bottom: Sc sts are worked into the bottom of the ch, and Spike sts are worked into the bottom of the Spike sts from Row 5.
2 sc in first ch – this is the third corner, [Spike in next st, sc in next ch] until 1 st remains, 2 sc in last ch – this is the fourth corner.
Right Side: Work 3 sts into the side of each 4-row coloured section.
[Spike in next row, sc in next row] across. Join with a sl st. Do not turn. <56 sc, 52 Spike>
Rnd 2:
Top: Ch 1, sc in first corner sc, sc2tog – joining the first and last Spike from Rnd 1, [sc in next Spike, sc2tog – joining next 2 Spikes] across.
Adding a Ch-circle: After making a sc into the last Spike at the top of the potholder, ch 13. Insert hook into the front loop and the second leg of the sc and make a sl st – this creates a ch-circle.
Left Side / Bottom / Right Side: {Sc in first corner sc, [sc2tog, sc in next Spike] across} 3 times. Join with a sl st. <108 sc>
Block Your Zig Zag Crochet Potholder (Optional):
Blocking is the process of wetting a piece of crochet to make the ends and rows straight. To block this potholder, you will need a steamer or spray bottle, straight pins, and a blocking mat or foam.
- Block your work by stretching out the potholder (vertically and horizontally), and placing straight pins along each side of the potholder to hold it in place.
- With a steamer or spray bottle, gently steam/spray the potholder. When using a steamer, stay at least 2 inches away from the potholder, so the yarn doesn’t burn.
- Gently pat the steam/water into the potholder with your hand.
- Allow the potholder to dry completely before unpinning it.
Questions?
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Hey, I’m thinking about BUYING the zig zag stitch pot holder. How many pages is it? also, thinking about buying the 12 set book of pot holders. How many pages is each of those? TRIED to message you through Ravelry but couldn’t.
Thanks
Susie